A new food store and restaruant has opened up in West Peterborough, New Hampshire at the long-boarded-up Union Mills as part of a comprehensive smart-growth plan for the village. The store and restaurant are committed to the concept that everything they sell should be either organic or local, with a preference for local. The management is also committed to bringing back to life the spirit of Peterborough’s legendary Folkway, where I had many of my favorite musical moments in the 1980′s and 1990′s, with singers like Leon Rosselson, Mad Dog, Alouette Iselin, Lui Collins, Garnet Rogers…
Eating locally-grown and prepared food may be the most important thing most of us can do for the future of the human race and its mother/matrix Gaia. Fossil fuel used in transporting food is nearly as great a source of greenhouse gases as commercial passenger air travel. Combining organic techniques with local farming does even more for the earth’s survival by cutting down on petrochemical use, soil depletion and water pollution.
Barabara Kingsolver’s new book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life ( about how her family ate locally for a year in Virginia) is going to be a major topic of discussion in my Quaker meeting during the next few months. The presence of Union Mill, along with local retired farmer Helen Coll (author of the bumpersticker slogan “Support Your Local Farmer or Watch the Houses Grow”), and our family membership in Darling Hill Community Farm (a CSA), will ensure that thoughts of local food will never be far from my mind.
All this has reminded me of how I became a vegetarian, why I have not (yet) gone any farther, to being a vegan or a raw-foodist. I feel a need to put this down in writing, and I hope some of you are interested. I’ll start the process now, and hope to continue the discussion later
I sense that I had been a vegetarian in a previous incarnation (if there is such a thing as a previous incarnation
), but my first intimation of this destiny was my experience, as a child, of caring for our small flock of chickens.When I was in preschool and in grades 1-3, I lived with my parents, brother and sister on a farm that we had purchased from an Amish family that was fleeing suburban sprawl in eastern Pennsylvania. For over a year we had no electricity, using gas lamps, wind-up phonographs, sad-irons, a hand pump and outhouses. My father’s college teaching job paid so little that he was forced to take a second job at the local Nike radar site as a night watchman. My mom tried to do some door-to-door sales, but she was no good at it; mainly she took charge of our large garden, small orchard and cornfields. As a student of the Rodales and Walnut Acres, she gardened organically, and the whole family lent a hand. We ate very locally out of necessity in those days. When my father got a huge promotion, we had to sell the house and move to Rhode Island. The chickens had to be disposed of. I was horrified; I wept and pleaded to let the chickens go or take them with us, but to no avail. My dad got out his axe and beheaded each chicken in turn, guttng them as soon as they ceased to run around, and handing me the guts to take to the dog. This helpless acquiescence in the killing and dismemberment of animals I thought of as pets and friends made a deep impression on me… the tears and red-anger of a child is a more powerful transformational force than any adult can know.
Later, I would sporadically rebel against eating animals I had known, but I was part of a meat/milk/egg culture that ensured that I would never consider giving up these foods.My grandfather exposed me to the works of Gandhi, my first teacher of vegetarianism, but I would not consciously meet a living vegetarian until after my father’s death. Within six months of meeting a Quaker vegetarian, who made a good ethical argument for not eating meat (I argued vigorously with him), I had made the transition, using the excuse of starting to practice yoga. Since that decision at age 18, I have not intentionally eaten meat or fish.
Over the years, I learned a lot about the health benefits of vegetarianism. I tried many different varieties of diet. There is a pornographic novel in which I was a minor (non-sexual, I’m afraid) character, which portrays me fairly acurately as living on avocados, raw sunflower seeds and wild watercress. I tried following a macrobiotic diet for a time. I foreswore eggs for several years (I still avoid them when possible). Much of the time that I was experimenting with these diets, I was as concerned (or more concerned) with saving money than with health, and I found that I had frequent bouts of respiratory disease that were probably due to nutritional deficiencies.Why is poisoned food, transported long distances, always so much cheaper than pure food from around the corner? Why is there so little local food of any kind conveniently available? It’s an industrial system, and there are powerful disincentives to leaving it.
In some sense, switching to a local-food, vegan or raw-food diet is a much more cooperative project than switching to a merely vegatarian or organic diet. With enough money, anyone can get high-quality organic vegetables, fruits, grains, nuts and pulses from farms half a world away, but these other transitions require community with both consumers and producers taking part. Farmers that I have known generally depend on animal manure for fertilizing fields. In places like China, farmers have relied extensively on human manure, but the worldwide trends are away from such practices (with our composting toilet, we use humanure to grow a tiny amount of food and flowers around our house). Few farmers rely exclusively on plant-based manure, and no farm can last long without replenishing the nutrients in soil. A local vegan farm would need to find a source of green manure or night-soil. The other part of the problem is providing steady income to local farmers while providing affordable food to local eaters. All the economies of scale favor the factory farmers in low-wage parts of the world.
(more later)